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The Dramatic Situation Of Dubrovnik Between The Mountains And The Adriatic Is Trumped By The Superb Old City Itself, Wrapped In 2km Of Majestic Medieval Walls.
Why go now?
The dramatic position of Dubrovnik between the mountains and the Adriatic is trumped by the excellent Old Town itself, wrapped up in 2km of splendid medieval walls. The Dubrovnik Summer Holiday, till twenty-five Aug, adds to the cultural offering with film, dance, classical music and art events (dubrovnik-festival.hr). And the city is better to reach than ever this summer, with flights from nine UK airports.
Touch down
UK Airways (0844 493 0787 ; ba.com) and easyJet (0843 104 five thousand ; easyJet.com) compete from Gatwick, with the second also flying from Stansted. Wizz Air (0906 959 0002 ; wizzair.com) latterly launched flights from Luton. Jet2 flies from Belfast, Edinburgh, Leeds / Bradford and Manchester ; Flybe flies from Birmingham ; and Bmibaby (0871 224 9224) flies from East Midlands.
Try and time your flight to arrive in light, allowing you to enjoy the spectacular half-hour road journey 20km north from Dubrovnik airport into the city, twisting way up above the Adriatic shore.
Buses depart infrequently, in connection with Croatia Airlines arrivals (though any passenger may use them ; forty kuna / £5). They pause at Pile (one), the primary gate of the walled old city, and continue to the primary bus terminal, 3km north-west and well-placed for many hostels. Return buses to the airport start out from this terminal 2 hours before Croatia Airlines exits.
A taxi will cost around two hundred and fifty kuna (£31).
Get your bearings
The main approach is across a stone bridge and thru the intricately-constructed Pile gate (one) - outside of which you can find the local bus station and the primary traveller office (2) at Brsalje 5 (00 385 twenty 312 011 ; tzdubrovnik.hr ; 8am-10pm daily).
Pile gate leads to the broad central boulevard, Stradun, which is lined by stunning 17th-century buildings. This road cuts right thru the city, and lanes climb steeply away from it on each side. At the far end, where the majority of the primary monuments are found, is the tiny harbor (three), and close by the east gate, Ploce (4).
Check in
Most places worth visiting are in the old city, but most all visitors stay outside. The few accommodation options are principally hostels,eg Fresh Sheets (5) at Svetog Simuna fifteen (00 385 91 799 2086 ; freshsheetshostel.com), where the sole double room (called "Heaven") costs 66 without breakfast ; single dorm beds are 33.
A keenly priced hotel (by Dubrovnik standards) in the walls is the three-star Stari Grad (6) at 4 Od Sigurate (00 385 98 534 819 ; hotelstarigrad.com). Doubles with breakfast start at 142.
A notch further up the price bracket, the Excelsior Hotel & Spa (7) at Frana Supila twelve (00 385 twenty 353 353 ; hotel-excelsior.hr) is stylishly mid-20th century, with an A-list register of celebrity guests and fantastic views out to sea. Doubles begin at 218, including breakfast.
Many visitors stay in hired flats, costing from around fifty per night for 2 folk, self-catered. There are plenty located in the district of Lapad, a 20-minute bus ride from Pile Gate.
The Dubrovnik Visitor Board provides photos and contact data at : tzdubrovnik.hr.
Day one
Take a hike
No other EU city boasts such complete and spectacular walls. You can locate one of the entrances to these medieval marvels just inside the Pile Gate (one) ; ticket sales (sixty kuna / £7.50) happen from 8am-5pm. Hold onto your ticket, because you may be asked for it at 1 or 2 checkpoints along the way.
Climb the first of many stone stairways to reach fortifications that date back more than a millennium in places, and are protected by Unesco. Besides providing the best intro to the city and hoisting you way up above the terracotta roofs and even church steeples, the walls themselves are full of interest. They are punctuated by bastions and spiced up by cafs and bars, that might help to draw out your tour to an enjoyable 2 hours or even more.
Lunch on the run
In such a touristy location, finding a reasonably priced lunch is tricky. So you could prefer to assemble a picnic from the produce on sale at the old-town market that fills Gunduliceva Poljana square (8) ; it opens 7 days each week for souvenirs, but on any day except Sunday you can also find fresh fruit and vegetables. In the same square are 2 shops where you can improve your feast.
For a sit-down break or sandwich, Skola at Antuninska one is a safe bet. It's family-run, the ingredients are fresh and the cost of a ham and cheese sandwich, for instance, made with home-baked bread is twenty-eight kuna (£3.50).
Window shopping
Given the sheer quantity of shops selling souvenirs, it's tough to sort the wheat from the chaff. Dubrovacka Kuca (ten) at Svetog Dominika 2 (00 385 20 322 092) is an Aladdin's Cave filled with all types of crafts and products, from honey and olive oil to paintings and porcelain.
In the same street, nearer to Stradun, Kate Stojanovic, dressed in normal costume, sells her own embroidery from an open-air stall.
The best of the city's many jewellery shops are found on Od Puca, level with Stradun at the Pile Gate (one) end.
You can buy excellent regional wines from the close by Peljesac Cape at Vina Milicic (eleven) at Od Sigurate 2 (00 385 20 321 777).
Cultural afternoon
The most interesting of the historic museums is in the striking Dominican Priory (twelve) close to the Ploce Gate (4) at Svetzog Domenica 4 (00 385 20 322 2 hundred ; 9am-6pm daily, 20 kuna / £2.50). As well as a beautiful 15th-century cloister, you can admire the friars ' collection of medieval and renaissance religious paintings which includes Titian's painting of Mary Magdalene and St Blaise, the guardian saint of Dubrovnik.
For a contrasting experience, the War Photograph Limited gallery ( thirteen ) at Antuninska 6 (00 385 20 322 166 ; warphotoltd.com ; 9am-9pm, thirty kuna / £3.30), has changing exhibitions of images by the world's top war photographers. By implication, it's also a sobering reminder of the conflict in the former Yugoslavia, which is also recalled in telling detail on public panels in other bits of the city.
An aperitif
Next door to the gallery, you can mingle with the artsy set at the Talir caf / bar at Antuninska 5 (00 385 twenty 323 293l ; 8am-2am), encircled by photos of actors and drinking a tall cup of Ozujsko beer (fifteen kuna / £1.65).
Dining with the locals
Al fresco dining is the order of the day and seafood the staple on most menus. The tables at Kamenice (14) at Gunduliceva Polijana 8 (00 385 twenty 323 682) spread across the tasty market square. Straightforward fare is served at good prices, including fantastic mussels "Buzara" in a wine, garlic and catsup for 56 kuna (£7). Opening hours are 8am-11pm daily.
If pizza is more your style, Mea Culpa (fifteen) dispenses its huge, captivating creations on the narrow sidestreet Za Rokom three (00 385 twenty 323 430 ; mea-culpa.hr).
Day 2
Sunday morning:go to church
St Blaise's church (sixteen), celebrating the patron saint of Dubrovnik, is a domed baroque building at the eastern end of the Stradun. The decorated faade eclipses that of the close by cathedral and the classy early 18th-century interior boasts an elaborate altarpiece glinting with statuary. Sunday Mass occurs at 8am and 12 p.m..
Take a ride
Frequent buses (route 4 and 6) from Pile gate (one) whisk you to the other face of Dubrovnik : the lovely Lapad promontory. Land at the post office Posta Lapad to enjoy a wander along Setaliste kralja Zvonimira, a pedestrian-only boulevard lined by trees, villas and plenty of cafs serving Italian-grade coffee. The close by city beach is clean, well provisioned and backed by shady gardens where you can escape the attentions of the midday sun.
Out to brunch
Back in the center of the city, Gradska Kavana (17) at Pred Dvorom one (00 385 twenty 321 202), close to the colonnaded Rector's Palace, is the place to relax with a helping of the substantial torta od makarula (macaroni, walnut and chocolate cake) for twenty-one kuna (£2.60). Open 8am-midnight daily.
If location is more important than fantastic service and tasty food, try Orhan (eighteen), a part out of doors restaurant serving meats and salads, overlooking the water outside of the Pile gate (one).
Take a view
Dubrovnik's communist-era cable car, wrecked in the Yugoslav civil war, was restored to active service last summer, and is once more speeding visitors in three minutes from the base station to the top of Srdj the bare hill that towers over the city.
The view from the 400m-high peak takes in the the walled city itself, the scattering of beautiful Elaphiti islands and, on a clear day, the nearby country of Montenegro.
Opening hours in the summer are 9am-midnight (00 385 twenty 325 393 ; dubrovnikcablecar.com) ; eighty kuna (£8) return.
The icing on the cake
The most fashionable way to reach Dubrovnik airport is to hop on board one of the regular tourist boats from the old port (three) to the seaside city of Cavtat (narrated "Tsavtat"). An one-way trip costs one hundred kuna (£12.50). The 45-minute ride offers fine views, and deposits you at a pretty arc of shoreline framed by bars and bistros. Have a drink and leave your bags at one of those venues while you explore Cavtat's hilly hinterland of elegant villas one of which was the birthplace of the local artist, Vlaho Bukovac, and is now a museum. Then take a quick 80-kuna (£10) cab ride to the airport as reported tagza.com.
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